Repairs are almost complete, only the final touches have been left - furniture placement, decor. At this stage, many are faced with the need to install a variety of designs, shelves to the walls of the home. Before you hang kitchen cabinets on the wall, you must carefully consider their convenient location, it is desirable to draw up a detailed scheme with all sizes.
Determining mounting height
It is not too easy to hang cabinets - it should not be fixed anywhere, because:
- all foodstuffs, dishes, various utensils lying inside should be easily accessible when delivered;
- geometry, general aesthetic appearance, should not be disturbed by improper placement;
- it is necessary that the ventilation system is easily mounted, held in the required places;
- it is necessary to fasten the elements very reliably in order to prevent falling under the weight of the contents under mechanical stress.
The layout of any modern interior focuses primarily on a particular person, family. Height cabinets above the floor - the most important criterion, depending on the growth of living in an apartment, house. The ideal option is for every adult family member to easily reach any shelf without using a bench or ladder. For example:
- when the owner grows 150-160 cm, it is recommended to hang cabinets 170 cm from the floor level;
- if height is 165-180 cm; height of suspension is 190 cm;
- for height 185 cm and higher - 200-210 cm.
Such parameters are given on the basis that the height of the table in the kitchen is about 88 cm, from the worktop to the lower wall cabinet at least 45 cm, the shelf on top is at the level of 110 cm.
The upper boundary of the hinged structure is made strictly horizontal - it is easy to check this with the help of a building water level.
Mounting methods
There are two main ways of hanging kitchen cabinets made of fiberboard, MDF, natural wood and other materials:
- common - using fasteners and hinges;
- using the mounting rack.
The specificity of the installation here is such that in the first case, a second person is needed to help to clearly observe the distances for fasteners, in the second everything is done on its own, alone, but the total cost of parts will be higher. Occasionally there is an additional fixing of very heavy, dimensional objects with the help of decorative cables mounted to the ceiling, as well as chrome-plated tubes installed on the floor in the form of a frame system.
Methods of installation, types of fasteners for brick or gas blocks, drywall or fiberboard are significantly different in their performance.
Hinges
When using hinges, fasteners, the work is done as follows:
- the limiting height is determined, a strictly horizontal line is delineated there, on which the place where the first hole will be drilled is marked with a drill;
- fasteners are installed, while using screws, dowels with special plastic, wooden seals;
- the piece of furniture is equipped with the corresponding fastenings - loops, brackets;
- after you try on the cabinet, mark the second point, screw in the fastener;
- at the end of the locker is suspended, level check the horizontal top edge.
It is important to observe equal distances between the holes. All cabinets are mounted at the same height - they should not "dance."
Mounting plate
The mounting rail consists of a hook that is attached to the side of the furniture and the rail itself, suspended to a certain height, serving as the basis for the hook. The main features of this method:
- work is easily done by one person, without the involvement of assistants;
- rotating screws help move the structure back and forth for optimal alignment;
- if you hang the cabinet on several slats, increasing the number of screws, the product will be fastened as securely as possible;
- the upper parts can be hung even when the lower ones are already fixed;
- a complete set of parts will be more expensive than using hinges;
- the structure will not fit snugly to the wall;
- the bottom of the cabinet should slightly stand in front of the kitchen apron or in the area of the back wall fix the hardboard.
Step-by-step instruction
Regardless of which of the above methods of installation is selected for the arrangement of the kitchen, the process of work is divided into several stages:
- surface preparation, marking;
- selection of suitable materials, tools;
- the process of hanging rails, adjustment, alignment design.
The whole process of installing one cabinet takes about two hours on average, when there are more cabinets, but they are mounted on one wall, a little less time is spent on each.
How to prepare the wall
High-quality preparation of the surface where the cabinets will be mounted - the initial, most important stage. The maximum allowable weight of hanging furniture depends on the material used to make the wall, and the degree of fit of all parts depends on its evenness.
During the preparation, the walls should be leveled as much as possible - any irregularities reduce the quality of installation, for standard constructions mounted in the room corners, you need to set angles of exactly 90 cm. It is important to install switches, sockets, lighting devices required for the kitchen project, stretch all wires and other communications . It is also desirable to paint, glue the walls with wallpaper, before setting up the furniture - the “Soviet” economy option will be painted around, only where it can be seen, ”is unacceptable for the modern time, as some adjustments are often made during the operation of the room.
In a “fresh” new building, it is better to mount a plastic kitchen apron, as it will neatly hide most of the irregularities, being fixed on the “liquid nails”, and the room is still capable of some shrinkage.
Necessary tools, materials
Tools for high-quality installation of the product requires a lot, but most of them are in almost every home:
- drill or punch;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- suitable nozzles for the screwdriver, perforator;
- metal tape measure;
- simple pencil;
- long ruler;
- carob keys;
- building level;
- hammer;
- hacksaw or jigsaw;
- clamps.
The set of materials for installation is also great:
- the basis - a wooden lath or a metal profile;
- cabinet details;
- front loops;
- intersection screed;
- self-tapping screws;
- nails;
- tires;
- screws;
- canopies.
The choice of fasteners for suspended structures depends on what the walls of the room are made of:
- for capital walls of concrete, bricks, ordinary bolts, dowels, anchors will do;
- hardened screws, preferably having a secret rounded head, with a two-thread thread, are taken on the walls of logs, beams lined with clapboard;
- to the plasterboard bases installation is made by modern dowels "molly".
Mounting strips, hanging cabinets
In the most modern sets of kitchen furniture, all the necessary fittings are often included in the set - to buy additional fasteners, closers, other details are not required, which will positively affect the total cost of the product. The recommended hanging height is also indicated in the assembly instructions.
The most frequently used suspension is on a special bar, since the necessary markings are much easier to apply, and the installation of all structures can be done as precisely as possible, ideally fitting in the existing interior. In addition, the row comes out smooth, with no noticeable gaps, and the load on the wall goes out evenly - you can not be afraid of collapse, even if the walls are thin.
To begin with, hooks are attached to sidewalls of hanging furniture using adjustment screws. The dimensions of the protruding part of the hooks are two to four mm. After holes are marked, they are drilled. The rail is positioned slightly below the top of the cabinets. If the wall is strong, it is allowed to save on the slats by mounting on their lengths, 10-15 cm long.
Then, dowels of a suitable type are driven into the holes - the mounting plate is fastened as securely as possible. During the procedure of suspension, it is recommended to remove the doors from the suspensions, remove the shelves. Then you can begin to regulate the modules on the lockers, to connect the individual "boxes" with intersection ties.
After completion of the work shelves, the doors are fastened into place, decorative cornices are mounted, etc.
Features, ways of mounting on plasterboard walls
Plasterboard constructions are multifunctional, practical, easily processed, have an aesthetic appearance. Their only serious disadvantage is low mechanical strength. Therefore, any mounted products are mounted on such walls as carefully as possible, using special fasteners, according to certain methods - professional or unconventional. Plasterboard decoration is used for walls made of brick, foam concrete, gas silicate.
Pazogreben - a material that also has gypsum in its composition, but is heavier. For its installation does not require the creation of a frame, and the individual parts of the tongue-and-groove wall are mounted, simply gluing together with each other. The strength of the structure, with the right approach, allows hanging the lockers, including by drilling through their back wall, followed by the insertion of plugs.
Gypsum plasterboards are often made by fan room, their presence does not prevent the installation of cabinets directly in this place.
Special fasteners for gypsum boards
Gypsum plasterboard is a gypsum product, sheathed on both sides with cardboard, used for leveling ceilings, walls, creating partitions, etc. There are wall and ceiling options - the latter are overly thin, able to withstand only minimal loads, therefore they are practically not suitable for wall decoration.
For high-quality installation of gypsum board and gypsum fiber board (gypsum-fiber sheets), special metal profiles are used, components of a special configuration. The fasteners here also differ in purpose:
- for fastening plasterboard to profiles using metal screws;
- for the installation of wooden products - wood screws;
- for the framework of laminated plasterboard - "flea" screws;
- to connect the guides with the concrete wall - dowels with impact screws;
- also used are butterflies, Fisher dowels, molly, spring, Hartmut, etc.
When buying, it is important to assess the quality of fasteners - rusty, with heterogeneous threads, abrupt differences in thickness and dimensions of elements for installation are not desirable.
Dowel "butterfly"
There are four variants of this fastening - 8 to 28, 10 to 50, metallic, universal, all of them differ in size, configuration, maximum load on the product. The principle of retention in the wall is as follows: a hole is made in drywall, into which a spacer part is inserted, then a threaded one is screwed in, the first expanding, changing shape, becoming like butterfly wings. Among the shortcomings: there should be an empty space behind the drywall surface, and the sheet itself should be no more than 12 mm thick.
The “butterfly” is recommended to be inserted, adjusted so that it is held as tight as possible in the hole.
Driva
Driva is a hollow plastic, metal dowel, produced without a drill or with a drill. With the help of it, not only mounted structures, but also paintings, lamps, small elements are mounted on drywall. Installation is simple: the dowel is screwed into the wall with a screwdriver, after which the screw is screwed into the cross slot of the product.
For the driva, which has no drill at the tip, pre-drilled hole.
Dowel "molly"
"Molly" can withstand loads in the range of 33-35 kg, in form resembling an umbrella. In the process of mounting a hole is drilled in the wall, a sleeve is inserted, while ensuring that its teeth are slammed to prevent turning. The screw is then screwed in until the drop-down part fits tightly into the plasterboard sheet on the reverse side.
Hinged wardrobe on the glued drywall
Gypsum plasterboards are used to create brick, claydite-concrete walls made of hollow foam concrete blocks, ceramic, gas silicate elements, etc. Light structures, weighing up to three to four kg, are simply attached to sheets of drywall, if the product has more weight, it should be mounted on a steel profile or directly concrete, brick, block wall. To do this, using a cutter cut out a piece of drywall, in the wall drilled the required number of holes into which the screws are inserted. The cut piece is glued in place, neatly puttied, the cabinet is suspended.
Using Mortgages
When there is no possibility to screw the screws directly into the frame, embedded fixtures made of wood are used that are equal in thickness to the details of the frame. If the bar is much narrower or wider than the frame part, a gap is formed between the suspension and the wall, which can lead to cracking of the drywall, worsening its appearance. When the bar is chosen correctly, the structure is mounted neatly and close to the wall.
In the course of work, the mortgage is screwed on the wall with "butterflies", even before the beginning of the cladding, an anchor with hidden heads is also permissible. Then drywall is mounted on the frame with metal screws. After that there are marked places where screws will be screwed in for hanging cabinets.
For suspension of particularly heavy structures, use strong long screws, mounted on a mortgage of a suitable size, or anchor bolts are used, screwed into a concrete surface.
Conclusion
It is rather difficult for a beginner to install wall lockers with his own hands, especially when it comes to a spacious kitchen, where there are several. The appearance of a furniture set, when mounting its individual items, should not deteriorate, individual elements - “walk”, look skewed relative to each other. It is important that all straight lines are clearly horizontal or vertical - then the cabinets will hang exactly, without distortions.
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